Đerdap, Serbia for Wine and the Neolithic

Eastern Serbia is a weird place. A kind of place that believes in black magic and Dracula and various other creatures that I can’t even begin to name. I guess that’s what the proximity to the Carpathians does to people.

Anyway, our Labor Day trip started out with visiting the Viminacium, an old Roman historical site, that was pretty well preserved and quite interesting to see. We then drove to the Golubovci fortress, which was pretty impressive, especially combined with its immense surroundings. Next, we drove uphill to a place called “Kapetan Mišin Breg”, where we were practically lured in to experience the local atmosphere, all together with a huge home-cooked buffet and frequent complimentary brandy shots. The view from this hill was amazing, making the Đerdap look more like a Nordic fjord rather than a plain central European river. We spent the night in Rajačke Pivnice, a village that looks so out of place in the Balkans that you feel like it should be somewhere in western France. And much like Western France, they produce amazing wine there. After a night of feasting on local prosciutto and cheese and drinking plenty of rose-spritzer (I know, it was the only thing they served at a local bar), in the morning we went from cellar to cellar (and believe me, there were a lot of those) where we given generous amounts of wine to taste, and we ended buying several liters of a smooth, white one. By this point semi-drunk (except the driver), we continued out little road trip to Lepenski Vir, a breath-taking archaeological site from the Neolithic era where we could see some pretty bizarre fish humanoid statues and even more bizarre tombs. We finished of our weekend with barbecue in one of the grotty highway restaurants. Great experience, though!

Insider Tip

Wherever you stay in Rajačke Pimnice, pay a little extra to have breakfast in the morning – it’s so fresh and tasty!

Where I stayed / started

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