Not going to lie. I was beyond apprehensive to ever surf in Hawaii. All I have ever heard growing up is how ridiculous the localism is there and how much white people are not a preferable sight in the lineup. Whatever. I’m from Oregon. I have seen people get threatened at gun point to leave a surf break. We hate it when anyone unfamiliar comes up to our secret spots. Especially if they have California plates. Unfortunately, this is not my turf and I am as white as they come so the time leading up to the actual paddle out had my mind swimming with thoughts of theoretical situations of confrontation. I over thought everything. This was not the case. Hanalei Bay was the epitome of welcoming vibes and the best right I have been blessed with in my entire life. Sorry Oregon, but you can’t beat bathtub temperature water and sets that peel in perfect unison. Good lord. I literally surfed until I went to drop in my last wave and my legs buckled from exhaustion. Beautiful. Only other time I have surfed this much in one session was down in Costa Rica. I recall one wave where I dropped in, cross stepped to the nose, cruised down the line and couldn’t help but think how I could easily die right there with zero regrets. So thank-you Hanalei Bay and thank-you to all the other Haoles out there keeping it very low-key.
Approach every break in Hawaii like you would a lion, carefully and with the utmost respect.