Even though technically a part of Belgrade, the municipality of Zemun has an entirely different atmosphere from its eastern counterpart – mostly due to the city’s turbulent history and the fact that it was divided and ruled by two different world powers (Austrian and Turkish respectively) for centuries.
This is why Zemun has a very Austro-Hungarian vibe – flat, square streets, yellow facades and charming, rustic decoration. Certainly one of the nicest part of Zemun is the Danube quay – lined with various cafes and restaurants, usually located on rafts or just on the riverfront. They usually specialize in river fish delicacies, so trying carp or something along these lines in one of these restaurants is a must. However, that day I opted to do something different. If you are walking along the quay, just before it ends, there is a little cobbled street that goes uphill. Once you start following it, the incline will become steeper and you will find your self in a charming little area dotted with various shops and traditional-style restaurant. If you follow the road all the way to the top, you will reach the amazing Gardos Tower that was built in the 19th century. For a small fee, you can climb to the top and get a breathtaking view of the entire city and its two rivers. For refreshment, there is a little pub right next to Gardos that has an authentic vibe and sells beers from all over the world. And for the cherry on top, I visited the local Salas (Austro-Hungarian style guesthouse or restaurant), just a little below Gardos to try some amazing dishes, like turkey with “mlinci” and goose in pepper sauce. Yum!