One of the oldest and most charming neighborhoods in Belgrade, Vracar might not be as packed with fun and busy as its more central counterpart of Dorcol and Stari Grad, but still has very much its own unique and authentic atmosphere, making it a place that shouldn’t me missed in case you ever decide to visit Belgrade.
A day at Vracar should definitely start with a visit to famous local Kalenic Market, where you will be greeted with lively atmosphere and delicious produce. You might even find long-lost gems among the vast book and vinyl collections of the second hand/flea market area. Next, you should go to the local kafana (tavern) of the same name, where you can get a delicious lunch or simply order strong black Turkish coffee to pick you up. The Krunska Street, which continues from Kalenic Market, leads to Nikola Tesla Museum, a small but dedicated institution packed with information about this great scientists. In the evening, you can go to one of the numerous trendy cafes, bars and club that have started popping up all across Vracar in the recent years. Still, my favorite spot is the hidden little jazz bar called Riff, where you can hang out with a blind dog or a bunch of cats finding their way among various instruments, tables and chairs. Or, if you’re in a mood for a more jumping spot, you can visit the hip hostel-turned-nightclub called Chillton that plays indie/alternative music and gives an air of a perpetual house party. Once you decide it’s time to go home, make sure to stop by Burek Non-Stop on top of Cubura, where you can get a hearty portion of this delicious local pastry that will surely prevent any potential hangover of the next day.